Everything seems so expensive these days – but how much should you pay for that bottle of wine, or pair of jeans? A panel of experts explains how to make good choices – and when you’re being fleeced
Isabelle AronSun 20 Oct 2024 03.00 EDTLast modified on Sun 20 Oct 2024 11.42 EDTShareThe Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.
Few of us can escape the feeling that our hard-earned cash doesn’t go as far as it used to. Thanks to a perfect storm of the pandemic and cost of living crisis, prices of many everyday luxuries have risen over the last few years. Whether it’s a flat white at a local coffee shop, olive oil in the supermarket or a pint at the pub, you’ve probably become accustomed to thinking, “How much?” as you begrudgingly tap your bank card.
The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link. Learn more.
But what’s making certain items more expensive, and how can you tell if you’re being ripped off? Is buying cheap a false economy, and are some items worth splashing out on? You may want to consider not just the cost but also the quality, sustainability of materials and ethical production of goods – after all, is it a bargain if you’re replacing it within a year? Here, industry experts unpack just how much we should be paying for everything – from chicken and butter to jeans and bed linen.
1A bottle of wine
Price range £8-£15All kinds of costs go into making wine: maintaining the vineyards, picking the grapes, fermenting and ageing the wine, bottles, shipping costs and VAT. So how can some cost a fiver? “Fixed costs such as bottles and shipping duty will come to about £2.70 a bottle plus VAT. At £4.95, the value of the wine is less than the value of the bottle and VAT. The quality is very stretched,” says Pierre Mansour, director of wine at the Wine Society. “It indicates someone or something along the chain is being negatively affected, say a vineyard with high yields, which can mean poor quality, or a producer under pressure from a retailer to hit a price point.”
For a £7 bottle, Mansour says 10% will go towards the wine, which “still isn’t enough”. “My advice is to spend between £8 and £15, the higher the better. The sweet spot is £12. Compared with a £7 bottle, a £12 bottle gets you four times as much value – a better return on your investment in terms of the wine’s taste, quality and balance.”
If you’re wondering why some supermarkets can sell wine much cheaper, Mansour says this is all about scale. “They focus on a smaller range but buy in huge volumes, often distressed stock – excess a producer is trying to sell off quickly. It’s not sustainable or ethical. It might come at the cost of quality, the environment or the people producing the wine.”
Pierre Mansour’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-range The Wine Society Generation Series Rioja 2020 (Mansour’s business), £12.50 thewinesociety.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel Lodi 2020, £17.99waitrosecellar.com
2Running shoes
Price range £100-£140“The materials involved in running shoes are fairly simple and cheap. You’ve got a fabric upper, a rubber outer sole and some form of mid-sole. It’s the foam in the mid-sole that’s probably the biggest determinant of the price. As a brand’s range gets more expensive, it’s usually the foam that improves the most,” says Nick Harris-Fry, co-founder of the Run Testers. That’s because improving the foam, and making it more lightweight, will affect your running performance, and the product development requires lots of research.
Harris-Fry says that big brands such as Nike and Brooks price their trainers similarly but many frequently release new models of long-running products. By looking out for older models in the sales, you can make some big savings.
As for sustainable options, he recommends brands such as Veja and Allbirds. That said, these shoes may not be as advanced on the technical and performance side as other brands whose main focus isn’t sustainability.
“You can get a pair of shoes for between £20 and £50, but for those prices you might sacrifice comfort, protection and durability,” Harris-Fry says. “They’re probably not designed to be used for lots of running.”
When you get into more technical racing shoes that have things such as carbon plates in them, he says, these can cost as much as £500. Hardcore runners may want a more technical shoe to shave time off their PBs, but for most people, it’s not necessary. “I think over £160 feels steep. If you’re just looking for nice trainers to go running in, I would pay between £100 and £140.”
Nick Harris-Fry’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-range Puma Velocity Nitro 3, £110uk.puma.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge Veja Condor 3, £160veja-store.com
3Cheddar cheese
Price range £11-£33 a kiloMaking cheese starts with milk, and the price of milk can vary depending on the time of year, the size of the national herd and demand. “Now, milk is about 38p a litre, but two years ago it was 58p a litre,” says Mary Quicke, owner of cheese producer Quicke’s. “Cheddar cheese needs about 10 litres of milk for a kilo of cheese, so 38p a litre gives a milk cost of £3.80 a kg. On top of that, you’ve got to haul the milk to the cheese dairy or factory. Small cheesemakers may buy milk only when they need it, and that can cost up to 20p a litre extra.”
Quicke says that labour costs can be as much as the milk for small-batch cheeses, while in a big factory, the work is done by machines and labour costs are lower. “A large dairy makes as much in a day as we do in a year,” she says.
“The best quality cheese will be handmade, small-batch,” says Morgan McGlynn, cheese expert on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch and owner of Cheeses of Muswell Hill in London. “There are entirely acceptable cheeses made on a large scale and matured in vacuum packs, but they will lack the complexity, interest and provenance you find in an artisan cheddar. The price gap between them will often be two or three times the cost a kg.”
Is there a minimum price to aim for? “If a cheese was under £5 a kg, I would give it a miss,” McGlynn says. She also advises going to the supermarket deli counter where they’ll cut portions of cheese for you. “There will be a quick turnover of product and it will be the best quality.”
Morgan McGlynn’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-range M&S Cornish Cove mature cheddar, £4.25 for 350gocado.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge Westcombe cheddar, £7 for 250g westcombedairy.com
4A cotton T-shirt
Price range £25-£75
View image in fullscreen“You could expect to pay anything from £5 to £250 for a cotton T-shirt – and the difference in price has to do with many factors,” says Alex Standley, personal stylist and owner of Luxe Leopard Lifestyle. “For example, whether the brand uses conventional or organic cotton, the percentage of human-made fibres in the T-shirt, whether the brand pays its workers a living wage, where the T-shirt is produced, stitching quality and brand mark-ups – often for designer T-shirts, you pay a high percentage for the name.”It’s also important to note that cotton is an environmentally intensive crop to produce. According to the WWF, making a cotton T-shirt requires 2,700 litres of water – enough drinking water for one person for 900 days. “Organic cotton is a sustainable option that avoids synthetic fertilisers and pesticides. It also uses significantly less water than conventional cotton, but it currently makes up less than 1% of cotton production,” Standley says. She suggests looking out for the Global Organic Textile Standard on a T-shirt label, which “ensures that the product is environmentally sustainable and better quality, as well as having better working conditions and fair wages throughout the supply chain”.
But what’s a reasonable price to pay? “I personally wouldn’t pay more than £75 for a good quality T-shirt. You can expect to get a decent quality, sustainably sourced, organic cotton T-shirt for £25,” Standley says.
Alex Standley’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeTommy and Lottie unisex organic cotton T-shirt, £24tommyandlottie.com
View image in fullscreenSplurgeFor women, Pangaia 365 lightweight scoop neck off-white T-shirt, £55uk.pangaia.com
View image in fullscreenFor men, NN07 Pedro 3525 mercerised organic cotton-jersey T-shirt, £80mrporter.com
5Olive oil
Price range £12-£20 for 500ml The price of olive oil has crept up recently, largely because of the impact of the climate emergency. This year, the International Olive Council expects just under 2.3m tonnes of olives will be produced, compared with 3.4m in 2022. “Prices have gone up substantially in the last year or two, both for branded and supermarket own-label oils,” says olive oil expert Judy Ridgway.
This is something that Cristina Stribacu, founder of Greek olive oil producer Liá Cultivators, has experienced first-hand. “With climate change, the yearly production often decreases, but the costs remain the same,” she says. “Producing high-quality extra virgin olive oil involves substantial costs for maintaining the grove, labour, materials and sustainable practices. We never use pesticides. Instead, workers clean everything manually three to four times a year, make compost and preserve the rich biodiversity.”
Stribacu says there has been a 60% price hike on glass bottles over the last three years (a bottle that used to cost €0.60 to €0.70 now costs more than €1.10; premium bottles have risen from €1.20 to up to €2), and the cost of labour has increased by 70% because of a shortage of workers.
Even if something is sold as extra virgin olive oil (EVOO), the quality can differ. “High-quality EVOO, priced between £20 and £40 for 500ml, is often made purely from the first cold extracted oil of fresh olives. It adheres to strict production standards and usually comes from a single source or a reputable producer,” Stribacu says. “Low-cost EVOO, at about £10 for 500ml, might be a blend of EVOO with lower-grade olive oil. It can be mixed with oils from various sources, which can compromise its purity and flavour.”
When buying olive oil, Ridgway suggests aiming for between £12 and £20 for 500ml. “At the lower end of the market you get what you pay for. After £12 or so you will get a reasonably good oil with improvements as the price increases. From £20 it may be a mixed bag of OK, good and very good. Excellence will probably be over £30, but there are exceptions.”
Judy Ridgway’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-range Castillo de Canena Picual, £14 for 500mlwaitrose.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge Laudemio Frescobaldi, £36.99 for 500mlselfridges.com
6A pair of jeans
Price range £80-£250Considering cost-per-wear is essential when buying jeans, according to personal stylist Gigi Vakilzadeh. “Focus on the fit, quality of fabric and finishing, and anticipate spending between £125 and £300 for a high-quality pair,” she says. “This reflects the investment in durable materials, expert craftsmanship and potentially sustainable practices, ensuring long-term value.”
At Blackhorse Lane Ateliers, an independent craft jeans maker in London, the average cost of a pair is £250. “Thirty-five per cent of that cost is the labour, 30% is the fabric and the rest is profit,” says founder Han Ates. “We have 10 people making [a total of] 150 pairs of jeans a week. Each pair takes two and a half hours to make.” Ates says that he has visited factories abroad making high-street brand jeans in just 18 minutes using automated machines operated by low-paid workers. The labour costs were about 1% of the retail price, meaning 70p for a pair of jeans that will sell for £70.
“Countries such as Bangladesh, China, India and Turkey play a big role in mass production with lower labour costs, allowing brands to keep prices affordable on the British high street,” Vakilzadeh says. “However, this raises important questions about sustainability and fair labour practices, so it’s crucial to do your research beforehand.” According to Vakilzadeh, M&S is a good option when it comes to how its jeans fit, but “their durability can be a bit hit and miss”. For mid-range options, she recommends brands such as Baukjen, Me+Em, Cos and Levi’s.
Ates suggests spending at least £80. “It will be better quality and made in better environments. If the jeans are £25 to £50, I would question the ethics.” Vakilzadeh says that jeans below £100 “often compromise on fabric quality, craftsmanship and durability”. She says that heavy denim is more durable; anything with more than 3% elastane or Lycra loses its shape faster. A good finish on pockets and flies means jeans will last longer.
Gigi Vakilzadeh’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeFor women, Levi’s 314th shaping straight jeans, £80levi.com
View image in fullscreenFor men, Levi’s 514th straight jeans, £100levi.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge For women, Frame Le Slim high-rise wide-leg regular fit stretch jeans, £260selfridges.com
View image in fullscreenFor men, Paige Federal slim-leg jeans, £230harveynichols.com
7Daily moisturiser and facial sunscreen
Price range £10-£60Most moisturisers are a blend of water, oils, emollients and occlusives (a type of moisturising agent) that help lock moisture in the skin, says Dr Anjali Mahto, consultant dermatologist and founder of the Self London clinic. “Moisturisers can vary significantly in price. Basic versions cost £5 to £10; super premium products retail at £200-plus. Budget moisturisers typically include standard ingredients to moisturise the skin effectively. Mid-range products, about £20 to £60, often incorporate more advanced ingredients, such as ceramides or antioxidants, and may have better textures or absorption properties. Personally, I wouldn’t spend more than £30 on a moisturiser.” At the lower end, she advises steering clear of anything under £5.
“You don’t always need the most expensive option – it’s best to focus on ingredient quality and suitability for your skin type,” Mahto says. For oily or acne-prone skin, she recommends a lightweight, non-comedogenic moisturiser; dry skins will benefit from richer, cream-based formulations with ingredients such as ceramides or hyaluronic acid; for sensitive skin, look for fragrance-free options.
As well as a daily moisturiser, it’s important to wear facial sunscreen to protect your skin from UV rays. Mahto advises using one with broad-spectrum protection (UVA and UVB) and a minimum SPF of 30. “Budget options (£5 to £15) typically use basic chemical UV filters and may have heavier textures or leave a white cast. Mid-range sunscreens (£15 to £30) often offer better textures, faster absorption and additional benefits such as hydration or anti-ageing ingredients. High-end sunscreens (£30 to £50-plus) tend to include advanced formulations, such as mineral filters and added antioxidants, and are designed for superior skin feel and protection.” Depending on your budget and specific needs, Mahto suggests spending between £10 and £60: “Anything over that would need to be very special in terms of formulation for me to part with my own money.”
Dr Anjali Mahto’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-range Moisturiser, Eucerin hyaluron-filler day cream, £34 for 50mllookfantastic.com
View image in fullscreenSunscreen, Heliocare 360 oil-free gel, £31 for 50mlheliocare.co.uk
View image in fullscreenSplurgeMoisturiser, Alumier MD Hydralight, £58.50 for 50mluk.alumiermd.com
View image in fullscreenSunscreen, Shiseido Urban Environment Age Defense oil-free SPF30, £28.80 for 30mljohnlewis.comskip past newsletter promotionSign up to The Filter
Free weekly newsletterComing soon, get the best shopping advice from the Filter team straight to your inbox. The Guardian’s journalism is independent. We will earn a commission if you buy something through an affiliate link.
Privacy Notice: Newsletters may contain info about charities, online ads, and content funded by outside parties. For more information see our Privacy Policy. We use Google reCaptcha to protect our website and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.after newsletter promotion
8Butter
Price range £2.75-£4.50 for 250g
View image in fullscreen Photograph: Getty ImagesFor ethically and sustainably sourced butter, look for products made with British milk, says Ed Ayton, Abel & Cole’s sustainability and ethics adviser. “We have excellent animal welfare laws in the UK and most dairies here are grass-based, so cows spend a lot of time outdoors,” he explains. That said, most butter packets don’t include details of how the animals are raised, which is why it’s best to buy organic – this means cows spend as much time outdoors as the weather allows. “Organic standards prohibit artificial fertilisers, so organic farmers often grow more clover, which gives milk higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids.”Jonny Crickmore is the co-owner of Fen Farm Dairy, which makes Bungay raw butter. It costs between £6 and £9 for 200g, and the higher price reflects the more labour-intensive production process – staff spend 50 to 60 hours a week hand-making 500kg of butter. “We’ve got three or four people making this small quantity, whereas in a factory you would have one person doing 50 or 100 times that,” he says. Making it by hand and using milk fresh from the milking parlour means the product has more flavour.
In terms of cost, Ayton says “good butter rarely costs less than £11 a kg”, equivalent to £2.75 for 250g. The good news is organic butter isn’t necessarily dearer. “There’s more parity with conventional dairy prices, so you can go for a brand that takes better care of animals and the environment without spending much more.”
Guardian Feast team’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeKerrygold pure Irish butter, £2.30 for 250gocado.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge Ampersand cultured butter, £7.50 for 210gdukeshill.co.uk
9A flat white
Price range £3.50-£4.50“A kilo of raw espresso beans will cost between £15 and £20. Typically, a double shot of espresso weighs about 17g to 21g,” says Tom Saxon, who has worked in the coffee industry for 10 years and founded Batch Coffee Club. “Per double shot of espresso, the cost of raw materials is between 25p and 42p. Milk costs roughly £1.50 for two pints, so the milk for a flat white costs 20p.”
There are other costs to consider, too. “It’s hard to estimate how much it costs to employ somebody to make a flat white. The minimum time it would take is 20 seconds if they’re making several coffees at once, up to about 60 seconds,” Saxon says. If they’re being paid the living wage of £12 an hour, this would amount to between 6p and 20p a flat white. You also need to factor in the wages of wait staff, and covering quieter times.
“Other costs include gas, electricity and water. I’d estimate another 20p per flat white,” Saxon adds. Then there are things like the cost of waste coffee and milk, rent and equipment (espresso machines can be £20,000, Saxon says). All these costs will be more affordable for mainstream high-street brands: “They can produce a cup of coffee much cheaper than an independent brand because it’s lower quality and bought in bulk; milk and packaging will be cheaper as they buy in huge quantities.”
While it’s more expensive, Saxon recommends buying speciality coffee if possible. “Coffee farmers make no money in some harvests because the C-price – the lowest price that coffee can be traded for – is so low that the sale doesn’t cover their costs.” If this happens, farmers may have to grow other crops, or move and leave their farm. “By buying speciality coffee, you can be sure the coffee farmer has been paid well above fair trade prices.”
With all that in mind, you should pay “between £3.50 and £4.50 for a flat white”. And how much is too much? “I would say £5 is,” Saxon says, with the caveat that this can depend on where you are in the UK, and the beans used.
Tom Saxon’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeUnion house roast cafetiere coffee, £6.50 for 200g tesco.com
View image in fullscreenSplurge Coffee taster pack, Batch Coffee Club (Saxon’s business), £17.99 for two bags of 200g from different coffee roasters batchcoffee.co.uk
10Bed linen
Price range £100-£200 for a double duvet setIs thread count the main thing you should prioritise when buying bed linen? And what does it actually mean? “Bedding comes in lots of different fabrics and weaves, all of which feel different against your skin. Natural fibres, such as cotton, linen and bamboo, will be more luxurious and often more costly,” says Laurie Davidson, a writer and stylist who specialises in interiors. “When it comes to cotton bedding, many believe the higher the thread count – the number of threads woven together per square inch of fabric – the better the quality. Actually, it’s the quality of the cotton threads the bed linen is woven from that makes it feel soft.” Egyptian cotton is often said to be the best cotton for bed linen, and the feel improves with each use. It comes from a different plant (Gossypium barbadense) from regular cotton, meaning it has extra-long fibres, which produce thread that’s thinner but stronger than other cottons, and can be woven into a luxurious, durable fabric.
When choosing bedding, a lot of it comes down to personal preference. “You might prefer to lie on cool and crisp linen, while others might like silk or a cosy feel to sheets,” Davidson says. She recommends looking out for things such as breathability and insulation properties, as well as thread count. “If you hold the bedding up to the light and can see through it, then it’s going to be more breathable. If you prefer linen bedding, Belgian or French flax is generally regarded as the highest quality. It has natural breathability and insulation properties, and is one of the most long-lasting fabrics you can choose. It’s also eco-friendly, renewable and biodegradable,” Davidson says.
As for price? “Anything under £50 for a double bedding set is likely not to be the best quality. For mid-range you’re probably looking at £150 up,” Davidson says. She recommends John Lewis’s own-brand bedding, as well as Dunelm, where you’ll find the Dorma brand. “Dorma holds a royal warrant and supplies the royal household, so it’s good enough for the king! Scooms is also a great online choice.”
Laurie Davidson’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeScooms double duvet cover, fitted sheet and two pillowcases, £209scooms.com
View image in fullscreenSplurgeSecret Linen double duvet cover, fitted sheet and two pillowcases, £330secretlinenstore.com
11A pair of socks
Price range £10-£20
View image in fullscreenYou might not give them as much thought as the rest of your wardrobe, but socks can vary hugely in terms of price, quality and comfort. “Socks can be made using a variety of different materials such as nylon, cotton and wool. The cost of socks is impacted by needle count, elastic quality, size and toe linking [the process of closing the toe seam of a sock]. Higher needle counts and seamless toes increase the price because they provide better quality and comfort,” says personal stylist Alex Standley. Needle count refers to the number of needles in the machine that makes the socks – and it can have a big impact on quality and price. “A higher needle count, such as 200 needles, results in a denser and finer fabric, enhancing durability, comfort and quality. This process requires more time and effort, increasing manufacturing costs and making it a more premium price point.”As for prices, Standley says socks can range from £2 to £40 for a pair. “Cheaper socks often use lower-quality materials such as polyester and human-made fibres, while premium options use naturally derived materials such as merino wool for better durability and comfort,” she says. “Expect to pay between £10 and £20 for good quality socks. Ethically and sustainably made socks may cost more because of higher production standards and paying a living wage.”
At the lower end of the scale, Standley says socks under £5 “will probably have compromised on quality, longevity and supply chain standards”, while “paying over £30 might be excessive unless they offer specific benefits such as enhanced durability or sustainability”.
Alex Standley’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeFor women, Colorful Standard classic organic socks, £9 colorfulstandard.com
View image in fullscreenFor men, Community Clothing sports cotton calf socks, £19 for threecommunityclothing.co.uk
View image in fullscreenSplurgeFor women, Genevieve Sweeney sparkly gold and merino cashmere socks, £64 genevievesweeney.com
View image in fullscreenFor men, Joseph Turner cashmere socks, £59 josephturner.co.uk
12A pint of beer
Price range £4-£6When it comes to beer, there are many variables – the raw ingredients, the type and quality of malt and hops, and the process. “Some beers are produced quickly at a huge scale in automated brewhouses, while higher-end beers might be made in smaller quantities, have longer maturation times or use more time-consuming methods,” says Tom Stainer, chief executive of Camra.
Paul Jones, owner and managing director at Cloudwater, a craft brewery in Manchester, says people assume that because craft beer is often more expensive, those breweries are making more money. “The opposite is true,” he says. “Craft beer brewers charge more because they use more resources.”
Jones explains that when a pub or bar buys a keg of beer, “half of the cost is tax and the other half is ingredients and whatever sliver of margin the brewery makes”. Stainer says the profit a pub makes is squeezed, too. “Five years ago pubs made just under 30p profit a pint sold, with the average national pint price about £3.80. In 2024, pubs make an average profit of 12p a pint, despite the price rising to £4.80.”
It also depends on location. “Someone in London might not bat an eyelid at a £6 pint,” Stainer says. “But if you’re paying much more than the national average – about £5 a pint – and there isn’t a reason (it’s a particularly special beer, say, or in spectacular surroundings), you may want to consider if you’re being ripped off.”
Beer writer Melissa Cole’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeCamden Hells lager, 4.6%, £18 for 12 330ml cans camdentownbrewery.com
View image in fullscreenSplurgeFuller’s vintage ale 2024, 8.4%, £6 for 500ml waitrose.com
13Cleaning spray
Price range £1.50-£4How much you pay for a cleaning spray may depend on how enthusiastic you are about cleaning, but it’s worth giving it some thought. “Most people go for the cheapest, but it’s not always the best,” says Lynsey Crombie, TV cleaning expert and author of The 15-Minute Clean. Cheaper sprays are more likely to smell strongly of chemicals and may not be as effective: “You end up using more.” At the higher end, there’s a Diptyque spray that costs £35, but Crombie believes this is too expensive. “You’re paying for a luxury glass bottle and a nice label and smell. But a good washing-up liquid cleans almost any surface, so why would you spend £35?”
In a supermarket, she advises paying £1.50 to £2.50, and recommends Cif and Flash, M&S’s Italian lemon and ginger kitchen surface cleaner and Sainsbury’s Greencare range. For a fully eco-friendly clean, she suggests Method’s products, at about £4 each. “For everyday cleaning, if you pay more than £4, you’re being ripped off.”
Lynsey Crombie’s picks
View image in fullscreenMid-rangeCif multipurpose cleaner spray, lavender and blue fern, £2 for 750mlsainsburys.co.uk
View image in fullscreenSplurge Method anti-bac multi surface cleaner spray, wild rhubarb, £3.75 for 828ml sainsburys.co.uk
14A whole chicken
Price range £12-£22 for 1.4kgWhat to look for in a supermarket bird? “The word organic. Certification requires slow-growing breeds to be used,” says Abel & Cole’s Ed Ayton. This is key because some birds are bred to reach full size in 35 days, so their breast and thigh muscles grow quicker than their bones can keep up with. Isn’t free-range good enough? “It means outdoor space is offered, but doesn’t offer much indication of welfare factors such as breeding or stockmanship.”
Sutton Hoo Chicken in Suffolk specialises in slow-grown birds that retail for about £20 for a 2kg chicken, while a supermarket bird could be £6. “One massive thing is the scale of the operations,” says general manager Will Waterer. “A chicken shed can have 40,000 chickens in it, and a farm could have four or five of those. It would take us two years to produce what an average indoor farm can in five weeks.”
Then there’s how much food a chicken needs to eat to gain weight. “An indoor chicken needs 1.5kg of feed to put on 1kg,” Waterer says. “When you slow the process, you get better flavour and a higher welfare chicken.” His birds need 3kg of feed to gain 1kg.
Not everyone can spend £20 on a chicken, but Waterer says it’s best to go for free-range and organic if you can. The lowest Ayton would pay is £12 for a 1.4kg bird: “Less and I’d be concerned about what’s being compromised.”
Guardian Feast team’s picks
View image in fullscreenPipers Farm properly free range whole chicken, from £13.75pipersfarm.com
View image in fullscreenSplurgeLabel Rouge chicken, £27.45 for 1.8kgthegingerpig.co.uk</script>","alt":"Contents","index":216,"isTracking":false,"isMainMedia":false,"source":"The Guardian","sourceDomain":"uploads.guim.co.uk"}”>
