Özge Kalvo, a sous chef hailing from Istanbul and currently working at Baba’s Place in Sydney, recently shared her delightful recipe for Turkish eggs, a dish enhanced with tomatoes, feta, and pastirma.
Reflecting on her journey into the culinary world, Kalvo admits, “Cooking wasn’t my first choice; I originally aimed to become a doctor or a dentist.” However, a fateful meeting with the head of the gastronomy program at Yeditepe University shifted her path entirely. “I’ve always been in the kitchen, cooking alongside my mother and grandmothers, and enjoying Sunday breakfasts with my father. Watching shows like Ready Steady Cook, even without fully understanding the English, was a great way to learn,” she explains.
After earning her degree, Kalvo spent two years at Restaurant Gram in Istanbul. A pivotal moment occurred in 2015 during a cultural festival that brought Australian chefs to her restaurant, including well-known personalities like Matt Stone and Joost Bakker. “I approached them and said, ‘I want to work in Australia,’” she recalls. Chef Ross Close invited her to Melbourne for an event showcasing Turkish and Australian wines. “We cooked for 100 people in a town hall kitchen with no equipment—it was an incredible experience,” Kalvo remembers.
A few months later, Kalvo relocated to Sydney, where she made her mark at modern Turkish restaurants Efendy and Anason before joining the acclaimed wood-fire restaurant, Ester, in 2019. “Ester was a dream come true. It was my real cooking school,” Kalvo shares, noting the exhilarating blend of various cuisines, styles, ingredients, and techniques that made her time there so enriching.
During her tenure, Kalvo earned the affectionate nickname “lamb queen” for her creative takes on staff meals, often infused with Turkish flavors. She even utilized her moniker for two pop-up dinners at Ester, dazzle guests with signature dishes like lamb sweetbread borek with hot sauce and a unique version of midye dolma featuring chicken rice mussels.
When discussing her creative process, Kalvo highlights the importance of storytelling in her cooking. “There’s always the question: what is the story? It can stem from my grandmother’s recipes, but it also reflects my current experiences,” she explains.
In 2023, she transitioned to the role of sous chef at Baba’s Place, taking a break from her pop-up projects. Yet, her passion for Turkish cuisine remains unwavering. “I love observing how diners respond to Turkish flavors presented in new and playful ways. My ultimate goal is to open a restaurant that embodies my culinary identity—it won’t be purely Turkish, as it will reflect my unique food philosophy.”
Kalvo’s interpretation of menemen, a traditional Turkish dish, simplifies preparation while showcasing her personal tastes. “It’s akin to shakshuka, but the eggs are scrambled directly into the base, which means you don’t have to transfer them from the stovetop to the oven. Everyone in Turkey has their own unique recipe; I prefer mine a bit more tomato-heavy, with fewer eggs, and with onion, garlic, and pastirma,” she reveals.
This simple yet heartwarming recipe is quick to make and perfect for sharing. “Serve it with fresh, crusty bread; just tear a piece and dip it in—no forks needed,” she advises.
To elevate the breakfast experience, Kalvo suggests gathering friends and family to prepare a diverse array of sides and condiments. “You’ll want an assortment of jams, extra feta, kefalograviera cheese, olives, sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, butter, honey with kaymak clotted cream, simit (Turkish sesame bagels), and of course, black tea,” she adds.
**Özge Kalvo’s Menemen Recipe**
*Prep Time: 10 min | Cook Time: 15 min | Servings: 2*
**Ingredients:**
– 20g unsalted butter
– 30ml olive oil
– 1 red shallot, chopped
– 1 yellow banana pepper, chopped
– 1 garlic clove, minced
– 50g pastirma (Turkish pastrami), sujuk, or chorizo
– 1 can chopped tomatoes or 2 ripe tomatoes, chopped
– 4 eggs
– 1 tsp Aleppo chili
– 50g feta
– 2 crusty bread rolls
**Instructions:**
1. In a medium frying pan over medium heat, warm the butter and oil for about one minute until the butter melts and begins to foam.
2. Add the chopped shallot and sauté for 3-4 minutes until soft and translucent.
3. Stir in the banana pepper and sauté for another 3-4 minutes until soft.
4. Add the minced garlic and sauté for an additional minute.
5. Stir in the pastirma, cooking for about two minutes until the fat renders.
6. Add the tomatoes, mix well, and simmer for 2-3 minutes before seasoning with salt and pepper.
7. While the tomatoes simmer, whisk the eggs in a large bowl.
8. Increase the heat to high, add the eggs to the pan, and stir through the tomato mixture, cooking for about two minutes.
9. Remove from heat, sprinkle with Aleppo chili and crumbled feta. Serve immediately from the pan with crusty bread on the side for dipping.
