Nina Chen, an avid traveler, found herself reflecting on her career after spending some time abroad working and exploring. It was during this period of introspection that she rediscovered the art of hand-dyed fabrics, a craft she had first been introduced to by her mother. The vibrant blue hues of traditional Taiwanese indigo fabrics sparked a passion within her, leading her to delve into this ancient art form. In 2016, Nina completed a course at the National Taiwan Craft Research Institute, officially becoming a traditional indigo dyer. By 2022, she and her husband relocated to the San Francisco Bay Area, initiating her journey as a street vendor.
Returning from a working holiday in the UK in 2015, Nina found herself at a crossroads in life. A lover of travel, she sought a career that wouldn’t tether her to one location, a job that didn’t necessarily require formal qualifications but could sustain her while accommodating her wanderlust. It was amidst her mother’s hand-dyed fabrics that she unearthed the direction she was searching for.
Nina’s mother, Sun Hsueh-Yen, had been crafting hand-dyed fabrics since Nina’s childhood. In her memories, the fabrics produced—such as cushions and curtains—were stunning, often adorned with calligraphy. Although her mother employed techniques that weren’t entirely traditional, the final products were remarkable.
One day, chance led them to the Sanxia area, where they experienced blue dyeing for the first time, learning about the intricacies of this craft. This experience ignited Nina’s journey into mastering the techniques at the National Craft Research Institute.
While growing up, Nina’s mother operated various businesses in Taipei’s Tianmu, from fashion stores to karaoke spots, even showcasing her dyed fabrics at local markets. Nina recalled accompanying her mother on these small business ventures, believing at the time that such a lifestyle was not for her. However, she now finds inspiration in it, realizing that while her path may not mirror her mother’s exactly, it shares many similarities.
After beginning her studies at the National Craft Research Institute, Nina was part of the youngest group ever accepted, with an average age of just 35. The institute aimed to invest in young talents, fostering a new generation of artisans. Nina observed, “The indigo dyeing community in Taiwan isn’t vast, and there aren’t many young practitioners, but those who are involved are dedicated, ensuring the continuation of this traditional craft while gradually developing a unique Taiwanese style.”
The indigo dyeing industry in Taiwan has faced challenges since industrialization favored synthetic dyes over traditional plant-based methods. However, a revival began in the 1990s, driven by artisans committed to bringing these practices back to life. Nina expressed her passion for this craft, stating, “I believe this traditional skill is important, and I am truly passionate about it.”
“I aspire to be a traditional craftsperson. This profession is a form of expertise, and I am deeply moved by the culture behind it,” Nina elaborated on her commitment to indigo dyeing. She continues to learn from her teachers and seeks out training opportunities every year to refine her techniques.
The indigo dyeing process is intricate, with a labor-intensive crafting method that contrasts sharply with industrial production. Nina carries out the heavy lifting of transporting dye vats and water buckets herself, her hands often stained with indigo, a reminder of her dedication to her craft. “This connection with indigo is very special to me. It’s hard work, and the process is neither quick nor simple; continuing requires dedication and passion.”
Thanks to her husband’s support, Nina has been setting up her booth at various markets since 2017. Wherever she sets up shop, he accompanies her, helping with logistics and caring for their newborn.
Her beautiful indigo dye creations have drawn a dedicated following at markets in the Bay Area, where she averages sales of 10 to 15 items each day. Some customers even seek custom orders. Nina views her market presence not just as a business endeavor but as a way to promote Taiwanese indigo dyeing to a broader audience.
However, starting a business in the U.S. involves significantly more upfront costs compared to Taiwan, where initial expenses can be minimal. Nina describes the pressure she feels, as she must invest in not just products but displays as well, while in Taiwan, she could simply set up with minimal prep. In her first experience at a market in the U.S., she faced a fierce windstorm that nearly swept away her booth.
“Participating in that market was the windiest experience I’ve ever had,” Nina recalled. “I was overly optimistic, thinking a busy venue like the Ferry Building would be a breeze. But the winds were fierce—my tent almost flew away, and my earring display kept toppling over. While my husband held the tent down, he also had to soothe our crying baby. It was tough!”
Despite the challenges, Nina enjoys the personal interactions at the markets, where she can connect with customers directly, sharing her craft and knowledge about indigo dyeing.
Having observed markets over the year and gaining practical experience, Nina has concluded that many larger markets in the U.S. take place indoors during California’s rainy months, while summer is ideal for outdoor setups.
Reflecting on start-up costs, she mused, “The savings I brought from Taiwan don’t stretch far in the Bay Area; I can only do so much with limited funds.” Operating as a one-person business comes with the challenge of managing every aspect independently.
Adjusting to motherhood has intensified the juggling act of her responsibilities. “Time has become an invaluable commodity. Now that I have a child, finding time to work is a challenge. The baby attends daycare during the day, but there are still household chores and crafts for the markets to tackle, all of which I squeeze in after dinner when the child is asleep. I often find myself dyeing fabrics and labeling products late into the night.”
Despite these constraints, Nina refuses to abandon her indigo dyeing business. For her, it’s not merely a job but a mission that propels her forward even when conditions are less than ideal.
These days, Nina shares her passion for indigo dyeing not only through her market booth but also by teaching children the craft. Using marbles or bamboo chopsticks tied with rubber bands, the children create their unique pieces through multiple immersions in the dye bath. Nina hopes to plant the seeds of this traditional craft in their hearts, nurturing the next generation of indigo artisans.
Looking ahead, Nina envisions her own garden where she can cultivate indigo plants, further exploring the integration of plant dye research. She also aspires to promote Taiwan’s indigenous crafts, believing collaboration with tribal artisans can not only revive traditional cultures but also enhance their economic prospects. Through this, she hopes to share the beauty of Taiwanese indigenous craftsmanship with a broader audience in both Taiwan and the U.S.
Nina recognizes that indigo dyeing is a painstaking process; finished products cannot be mass-produced, and each dye batch requires careful adjustments. Yet for her, the most joyful moments in her entrepreneurial journey come when she unveils the vibrant patterns after dyeing, filled with life. “I remind myself to enjoy the process and embrace the life I’ve chosen, striving for balance between work and family.”
